黑椒雞丁Black pepper chicken
The fast work of the section, with the salt-and-sweet glaze of the black pepper and the thin-cut of the chicken and the green of the onion doing the balance. A 1–2 min of the wok-heat, and the whole dish is the marinate half of the chicken, the stir-fry half of the green, and the salt-and-sweet coat of the black pepper over the whole thing.
Technique notes
A stir-fry, and the hardest part is the marinate — the 15–20 min of the wet side of the family, the salt of the light soy and the depth of the oyster, carried onto the surface of the 1 cm cube. The thin-cut of the chicken (the 1 cm cube) and the green (the 5 mm cut) is the one that sets the 1–2 min window of the stir-fry, and the black pepper is the top note of the balance, cracked coarse and in the sauce, not sprinkled on the plate. The whole dish is the salt-and-sweet coat of the black pepper over the thin-cut edge of the chicken and the green.
Equipment
- A wok or a 26–28 cm heavy skillet — the wide surface is what gives the chicken its browning, and the wok-heat that a small pan can't hold
- A flat spatula or a wooden spoon, to break the cube up and toss it against the hot surface
- A pepper mill, or a mortar and pestle, for the coarse crack of the black pepper
Ingredients
- 300 g (10 oz) chicken thigh, cut 1 cm cubes, the thin-cut that sets the 1–2 min window
- 10 ml (2 tsp) light soy sauce — the salt of the marinate
- 10 ml (2 tsp) oyster sauce (or a 5 g of dried shrimp, the depth half of the balance)
- 5 ml (1 tsp) cornstarch — the thin, glossy coat of the marinate
- 5 ml (1 tsp) sesame oil
- 1 (80 g) red or green onion, the thin-cut, cut 5 mm dice
- 2 (15 g) cloves of garlic, sliced thin
- 1 (5 cm) piece of ginger, sliced thin
- 2 (15 g) bird's eye chilies, sliced thin, for the heat in the dish
- 30 ml (2 tbsp) vegetable oil
- 3 (20 g) black peppercorns, cracked coarse to about 5 g of the ground black pepper — the top note
- 10 ml (2 tsp) sugar — the sweet edge against the salt
- 15 ml (1 tbsp) dark soy sauce — the color and depth
Method
- The chicken, marinated. The 1 cm cube of the chicken with the 10 ml of the light soy, the 10 ml of the oyster, the 5 ml of the cornstarch, and the 5 ml of the sesame oil, and a 15–20 min rest. The marinate logic — the salt of the soy, the depth of the oyster, and the 5 ml of the cornstarch are the thin, glossy coat of the stir-fry, and the 15–20 min of the wet side of the family is the one that carries it to the surface of the cube.
- The mise en place. The 5 mm dice of the onion, the slices of the garlic, the slices of the ginger, the sliced chili. The coarse crack of the black pepper — about 5 g of the ground, the top note of the balance. Measure the 10 ml of the sugar and the 15 ml of the dark soy together in a small bowl, and stir — the 25 ml of the salt-and-sweet mix, all in one, so the 30 s it's in the wok is the salt-and-sweet coat, not a pause.
- The chicken, and the browning. High flame, the wok properly hot — a thin wisp of smoke, the ready test. Into the wok, the oil, in a thin film, and the 1 cm cube of the chicken, and 1–2 min, breaking the cube up as it cooks, until it has lost its pink and taken on a clean, even, salt-and-sweet browning. Tip it all to one side of the wok. This is the 1–2 min window of the stir-fry, and the one that sets the surface of the cube and the thin-cut edge against the wok-heat.
- The aromatics, briefly. In with the garlic, the slices of the ginger, and the sliced chili, and 15–20 s, until the garlic is a pale gold and the raw smell has gone to fragrance. The aromatics-in-hot-fat move — the thin-cut of the garlic and the ginger is the one that sets the 15–20 s window.
- The onion, the black pepper, and the salt-and-sweet. In with the 5 mm dice of the onion, and 30 s, until the green has just softened at the edge and the salt of the marinade has taken hold. Into the same wok, the coarse crack of the black pepper, and the 25 ml of the salt-and-sweet mix, and a 30 s of the fast work, until the whole thing is a single, even, glossy coat and the black pepper is in the salt-and-sweet sauce, not sprinkled on the plate.
- The plate. Toss the chicken onto a plate, and the balance of the dish is the salt of the soy, the sweet of the sugar, the depth of the oyster, the top note of the black pepper, and the sharp edge of the green of the onion, all in the 1 cm cube. A bowl of plain jasmine rice (the rice article) is the starch that carries the salt-and-sweet coat of the cube.
Common failures
- Dry, stringy chicken. The cube was overcooked (step 3), or it was cut too thick past 1 cm (step 1), so it sat in the wok past 2 min. The 1 cm cube is the one that sets the 1–2 min window of the stir-fry, and the marinate (step 1) is the one that carries the salt of the soy and the depth of the oyster to the surface of the cube.
- The onion is limp and the green is gone. It went in too early (step 5 is 30 s, not 2 min), so the thin-cut of the onion cooked out instead of staying a sharp, crisp edge against the wok-heat. In with the onion in the last 30 s, and it will keep the sharp edge against the fast work of the wok.
- The black pepper is a dust on the plate, not in the sauce. The coarse crack of the pepper was sprinkled on after the wok (step 5), instead of in the 30 s of the fast work with the 25 ml of the salt-and-sweet mix. The black pepper is the top note of the balance, and it has to be in the salt-and-sweet coil of the stir-fry, not sprinkled on the plate.
- Under-seasoned, "plain" chicken. The marinate was under-done, or the 10 ml of the oyster was left out, so the salt-and-depth corner was flat. Taste the cube against the sauce in step 5, and add a few more drops of the light soy or the oyster if it's flat.
- A thin, runny coil that slides off the cube. The salt-and-sweet mix was under-done, or the wok wasn't hot enough when it went in (step 5), so the 25 ml of the mix steamed instead of taking on a glossy coat. Let the wok get properly hot before the pour, and the wok-heat will coat the surface of the cube and the salt-and-sweet will take hold.
Variations & substitutions
- A beef version. The same stir-fry, but the 5 mm thin-cut of the beef flank (the thin-cut of the hot pot), with the marinate logic of step 1. The beef is the depth edge against the top note of the chicken, and the black pepper is the balance that carries both.
- A little more of the "Sichuan" heat. A 2–3 sliced bird's eye chilies and a 1 g of the ground Sichuan pepper in with the garlic and the ginger in step 4, and the top note of the Sichuan edge, the same balance of the mapo tofu family.
- A plain, "chicken-only" stir-fry. The same stir-fry, the same wok-heat, the same marinate, but the onion and the chili left out, and the black pepper and the salt-and-sweet as the only edge — the cleanest version of the thin-cut cube, the one that lets the marinate and the black pepper do the whole job.
What to serve with it
This is the stir-fry of the section, and the one that stands in for the egg-fried rice (the rice grain) and the chow fun (the rice noodle). It's the dish that pairs with anything that's a light, fresh, sharp plate to set the edge against the wok-heat of the cube: the som tum (the raw, pounded, the salt–acid–sweet) is the "cut" against the stir-fry cube, and the mapo tofu is there for the people who want the heat and the salt of the Sichuan edge to go with the stir-fry cube.
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