鮭の照り焼きTeriyaki salmon
The soy-and-mirin glaze on top of the seared salmon fillet: the pan-heat surface, the salt-and-sweet glaze of the marinated soy-and-mirin (the glaze family), and the knife work that sets the cut of the fillet. The whole dish is the browning decision and the salt-and-sweet of the marinated glaze, and the balance of the plate against the crisp, even, deep gold surface of the fillet.
Technique notes
Teriyaki is a glaze cook, and the whole balance is in the sauce, not in the fish. The three layers are the pan-heat surface (the browning half), the teriyaki glaze (the salt-and-sweet half), and the rice (the clean, plain rice plate that sets the edge against the salt-and-sweet of the marinated fillet). The pan-heat is the browning decision — the fillet is seared on the flat pan-heat surface until the crisp, even, deep gold half is set — and the teriyaki glaze is the salt-and-sweet of the marinated soy-and-mirin, and the balance of the plate against the crisp, even, deep gold surface of the fillet.
Equipment
- A 24 cm heavy, flat, non-stick pan (or a cast-iron skillet) — the flat, heavy, pan-heat surface that sets the crisp, even, deep gold half
- A long, thin brush, for the teriyaki glaze
- A flat, clean rice plate, for the rice
Ingredients
- 2 salmon fillets (about 150 g each), skin on
- 15 ml soy sauce — the salt of the marinated glaze
- 15 ml mirin — the sweet of the marinated glaze
- 10 ml sugar (a 1 tsp) — the sweet note of the marinated glaze
- 5 ml sesame oil — the fat note of the marinated glaze
- 5 ml rice vinegar — the acid note of the marinated glaze
- a pinch of sesame seeds, toasted, for the top note (optional, but it sets the balance of the plate)
- 200 g cooked plain rice — the clean, plain rice plate that sets the edge against the salt-and-sweet of the marinated fillet
Method
- The marinate, mixed. Into a small bowl, the 15 ml of the soy, the 15 ml of the mirin, the 1 tsp of the sugar, the 5 ml of the sesame oil, and the 5 ml of the rice vinegar, and a 10 s of the whisk into a single, even, salt-and-sweet marinated glaze. The marinate logic: the salt of the soy and the sweet of the mirin, carried onto the surface of the fillet.
- The fillet, marinated briefly. The 2 salmon fillets into a shallow dish, and the marinated glaze poured over the surface. A 20 min rest, and the marinated glaze is evenly coated on the surface of the fillet. Pat the fillets dry with the knife work of the kitchen towel, and set the marinated glaze aside for the teriyaki glaze on the plate.
- The pan-heat surface, heated. Into an unheated pan, a thin film of oil, and a medium-high heat — the browning window. When the oil shimmers and the surface is a clean, even, hot surface, you're ready.
- The fillet, seared on the flat. The 2 fillets skin-side down on the hot, flat pan-heat surface, and a 3–4 min, until the skin is a crisp, even, deep gold. Flip it once, and a 2–3 min more, until the fillet is through but still pink (the salmon is cooked, not overcooked, and the balance of the marinated glaze is on the plate, not in the fillet).
- The teriyaki glaze, brushed on. With the fillet still on the flat pan-heat surface, the marinated glaze, brushed on the top surface with a 30 s, until the surface has a clean, even, glossy, salt-and-sweet teriyaki glaze on it. The salt of the soy and the sweet of the mirin are on the plate, and the balance is the marinated glaze of the browning decision on the flat pan-heat surface.
- The plate, assembled. On the clean, plain rice plate, a serving of the 200 g of the plain rice, and the 2 pieces of the marinated, seared fillets on top, with the teriyaki glaze brushed on the surface. A dusting of the toasted sesame seeds (the top note) over the top, and the balance of the plate against the crisp, even, deep gold surface of the fillet and the clean, plain rice plate.
Common failures
- The fillet is dry, stringy, and braised out. The fillet ran long in the pan-heat (step 4), or the teriyaki glaze was on it too long in the pan-heat (step 5), so it cooked in its own rendered fat and dried out. The fillet is a seared cook, not a braised one, and the browning decision is the window where the crisp, even, deep gold half is set, and the balance of the marinated glaze is on the plate, not in the fillet.
- The teriyaki glaze is a bitter, dry, burnt mess. The pan-heat was too hot, and the marinated glaze was on the flat pan-heat surface too long (step 5), so the sweet of the mirin and the sugar burn (the glaze burns). Lower the heat, and the marinated glaze is on the flat for a 30 s, not a 2 min, and the balance is the salt-and-sweet of the marinated glaze, not a burn.
- The plate is a salt overload, with no sweet. The soy in the marinated glaze was under-done, or the mirin and the sugar were under-done, so the balance tilted toward the salt, and the sweet was under-done. Taste the plate against the marinated glaze, and back it with a 5 ml more of the mirin and a 1 tsp more of the sugar.
Variations & substitutions
- A "chicken thigh" version. The same pan-heat seared cook and the same marinated glaze, but the salmon is swapped for the 2 chicken thighs, and the marinated glaze is the balance of the plate against the crisp, even, deep gold surface of the chicken.
- A "mackerel" (saba) version. The same pan-heat seared cook and the same marinated glaze, but the salmon is swapped for the 2 mackerel fillets, and the marinated glaze is the balance of the plate against the crisp, even, deep gold surface of the mackerel.
- A "no-sugar, soy-and-mirin-only" version. The same pan-heat seared cook, but the sugar is dropped from the marinated glaze, and the balance of the marinated glaze is the salt of the soy and the sweet of the mirin, without the sweet note of the sugar.
What to serve with it
This is the teriyaki glaze of the section — the pan-heat seared cook, the marinated soy-and-mirin glaze, and the clean, plain rice plate that sets the edge against the salt-and-sweet of the marinated fillet. It pairs with the gaeng som (the acid version of the same balance) and the miso soup (the clean, rice plate that sets the edge against the salt-and-sweet of the marinated fillet). A clean, simple plate of onigiri is the "cut" against the salt-and-sweet teriyaki glaze of the fillet.
More
Back to Japanese · Techniques (sauces 101, pan heat, marinating, knife skills, rice, braising)