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Japanese

The Japanese section builds from a clear dashi broth and a thick, soft udon, and reaches to the fried, the seared, the layered, and the sweet. It is the "deep dashi and the clean rice" section, and the one that teaches the dashi half of the whole site, with the noodles, the frying, and the pan-heat and marinating half of the plate.

Broth & soup

出汁Dashi

The clear, deep, quiet broth that sits under almost everything Japanese: kombu first, bonito at the end, heat only where it belongs. Everything below — the miso soup, the ramen, the niku udon, the katsudon — is a seasoning poured over or cooked in this liquid, so the broth is the one thing in the section worth learning until you can make it from memory.

The section's broth

味噌汁Miso soup with tofu and wakame

A broth you assemble in under ten minutes, built on the same quiet dashi that everything else in this section stands on. The miso goes in off the heat. That is the one rule in this recipe — the miso ferments, and once it hits a rolling boil it turns grainy and breaks the surface.

The section's soup

ラーメンRamen

The broth-first build: a deep bonito-and-kombu dashi carried over pork shoulder, seasoned with a tare of soy and miso, and served over thick wheat noodles with the toppings — the egg, the menma, the sliced chashu — each one cooked separately and set on top. The whole thing comes down to the order the pieces go in and the length of the braised bone.

The section's noodle soup

肉うどんNiku udon

The quiet, thick, wheat-udon soup: a clean dashi base, the broth logic of the whole move, marinated pork shoulder (or a pan-heat-seared cut) and a small load of shredded vegetable, and the thick, soft, udon that has been boiled, drained, and set in the broth, not on top. The whole dish is the dashi logic, and the noodles logic (boil, drain, and the salt-and-sweet of the balance), with the knife work that sets the vegetable and the pork.

The section's udon
Rice & egg

照り焼きChicken teriyaki

The name is tere-yaki: the shine and the grill. The chicken is poached gently in a thin soy-sake-sugar liquid until done — which is why it never dries out — and then the cooking liquid is reduced to a lacquer and the pieces turned in it until they hold the shine. The sauce is the recipe; the chicken is mostly in the way of the sauce.

The section's sear

鮭の照り焼きTeriyaki salmon

The soy-and-mirin glaze on top of the seared salmon fillet: the pan-heat surface, the salt-and-sweet glaze of the marinated soy-and-mirin (the glaze family), and the knife work that sets the cut of the fillet. The whole dish is the browning decision and the salt-and-sweet of the marinated glaze, and the balance of the plate against the crisp, even, deep gold surface of the fillet.

The section's fish

カツドンKatsudon

The Japanese cut-cutlet-over-rice bowl: a breaded, deep-fried pork loin (the batter and fry half), the marinated soy-and-mirin tsuyu (the salt-and-sweet half), the egg (the fat half), and the plain rice (the balance of the bowl against the crisp, even, deep gold cutlet). The whole dish is the bread-and-fry decision (the breaded cutlet) and the marinate-and- reduce decision (the tsuyu), with the egg and the plain rice the balance of the plate.

The section's cutlet

卵焼きTamagoyaki

The Japanese sweet egg roll: three eggs, beaten with the dashi and the salt of the soy and the sweet of the mirin, layered in a square maki pan (or a thin, flat pan-heat surface), one thin layer at a time, and each layer rolled up onto the last so the whole thing is a single, clean, even, neat rectangular roll. The whole dish is the pan-heat decision (the browning layer at a time) and the layering logic (each layer sets the balance of the egg, the dashi, the salt, and the sweet).

The section's egg

おにぎりOnigiri

Rice shaped by hand while it's still warm, a strip of nori on the outside, and nothing on the inside — this is the version that is supposed to taste like rice. If you can cook rice well, this dish is 90% done before you make it.

Dumplings & pancakes
Fried
Raw & noodles
Sweet

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